I really like the idea of applying a layer with the 1200 grit. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. I don’t have the required ventilation in my shop for spraying, and I don’t really have space outside my house to set up. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. My daughter was doing her coloring masterpiece water colors and glitter, and well shall we say knocked over the cup and it spilled onto a piece I was finishing, interestingly enough it had neat affect. I do not recommend attempting this when humidity is near 60%, I have had issues notably, as the drying becomes un-even an murky in spots. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. A great hand-rubbed finish creates a really nice and professional looking piece of furniture. They are by no means really bad, but still. I take a different approach. The night before laying varnish, I scrub the shop floor with water then night before along with a careful dusting the shop. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. Make a few uni-directional passes. Faster-drying polyurethane … For some, you get a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much. On day one, I take a rag and I apply a coat everywhere on the furniture. You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] These parts are the drawer fronts and at this point, I’ve already applied 4 layers with the rag. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. 1. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. Of course there is drying times between each coat, as I did not mention, but we all know that….hopefully. Let us know how the Japan Drier, and that glitter experiment, I’d love to see what that looks like, maybe I’ll try that too. RAGS. It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. Apply only one thin coat. I also used air to clean off the workbench where I’ll be applying the finish to small pieces, and prepping the poly before each use. Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. After the topcoat dries thoroughly, buff it as shown below. I wait 1 day between coats. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. So it’s no wonder devilish dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes. But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. Although spray finishes dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust. I still had some runs doing this method which I have sanded but now I’m some spots I will need to touch up the paint – will this be a problem? Another Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! How many coats do you apply? Then I wipe the piece/section clean/dry. Go for it! You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: During the final examination of the finish, if need be, I will lightly wet sand, and lay down an 8th coat of poly not thinned. Wipe off the poly dust from the surface with a dry, lint free rag. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. Step 1: Apply Finish Dennis, Thank you so much for sharing your method. 5. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? Thank you for sharing your methodology on wipe-on poly. Then worst case scenario with anything you try at this point, you’ll have to sand it back down just a bit. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. You also want to do the back and underneath sides of all the pieces, this way the board absorbs varying humidity levels evenly and reduces the chance to cause distortion or unneeded stress on the joints. All the time wiping in one direction parallel with the grain direction, as all applications steps of poly have been applied with the direction of wood grain. This is plenty smooth for a great finish. Then I do a damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. You can read more about Adam here. I sand between each coat very lightly to a smooth finish with progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo. I am going nuts, trying to lay varnish with NO nibs. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? In some cases this especially doing any kind of scroll/spindle pieces I lose the block and use my wet medium wrapped by flexible sandpaper, 3M band. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? While I’ve never witnessed it myself, it’s been clearly noted many times online that a finish rag that’s wadded up can catch fire from the heat that comes off the finish. The best thing to do is apply a poly layer with sandpaper afterward. Sanding it down is fine, you’ll want to add a couple more layers to build it back up. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish—as long as the finish is fully dry. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. But when you say touch up the paint, so you poly’d over a painted surface? First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Make sure to remove all sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly or you will have dust particles in your finish! How to Apply Wiping Varnish. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. I’ve done it, and it comes out good. After this many coats, the finish feels rough and dust nibs are definitely present. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. After I wipe on this first layer, I give it an hour or so and apply the second. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. Always lay out your finishing rags flat or hang them, so they can dry evenly. If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). Apply only one thin coat. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. It’s easier to clean up dust as you go than to remove it after it builds up on everything. The dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs but raised grain from the sanding. The first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so you don’t have to wait long for the second. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. Plus I’m worried about overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and in my tight-knit neighborhood, that’s a real concern. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. How Do You Smooth the Final Coat of Polyurethane? On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. i used a metal flake paint for color. This is usually enough to really make the final finish super smooth, and with a deep reflective sheen. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. Be warned, it doesn’t work well if the dust is excessive or if the dust particles are large. A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. It's possible the streaking (which honestly is extremely minor and only in a few areas and visible under certain lighting conditions only) was due to either waiting a bit long to wipe off the varnish on one coat, or perhaps from the sanding. Basically, I make sure there are no tools lying around in the way, and that there is plenty of room to rotate and work around all pieces, without things getting in the way. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. varnish. Thin happens in two ways. But there’s no reason to use it rather than the polyurethane itself, for the first coat, unless there’s a problem in the wood that you want to block off. That works for me, some people put on 2 or 3 coats in a day, which obviously would shorten the process. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. They are by no means really bad, but still. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. Subscribe here. I hope that makes sense! Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. I only do this wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really want to be very slick and smooth. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. & humidity play a important roll as well. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. God has blessed him with a beautiful family, as well as a passion for teaching others about woodworking. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). So anywhere that will get touched a lot I do this. Conclude by a polishing pad. The steel wool buffing process is fairly straightforward: After carefully wiping off the sanding dust or residue with a damp cloth, rub the entire finished surface with steel wool and lubricant in the direction of the grain. Step 1: Apply Finish Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. My high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but the main thing that has been bothering me is the dust nibs. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. I’m Adam, and I’m a small-shop woodworker. But after the 4th or 5th coat, I take my 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and apply the coat using the sandpaper with a block of wood. Polyurethane Finish Tip#2: Level the Surface of the Polyurethane. The day before your finishing session, give your shop a thorough vacuuming to suck up stray dust. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Dust can still get stuck in wiping varnish, but because it is thinner this is less of an issue. Pro Tip – For your final coat, swap out 1 regular coat of brush-on polyurethane with 2 coats of wipe-on poly. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the … I use a piece about 10 inches long. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. I definitely have some dust nibs in the last coat i put on. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Still, I get the nibs. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Finishes rarely look or "feel" right if left right off the brush or spray gun. Sand down the brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. You do NOT need to sand very much or very hard. Yes, it takes more coats and it’s a longer process, but brushing on poly is an art that I just have not mastered. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. This page may have affiliate links. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. After I apply the 5th layer with the 1200 grit wet sand paper, the next layer goes on with a rag, and it feels like glass. The first stage is the separation stage. Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. When you apply multiple coats of urethane, any dust or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Lightly sand the surface with fine sand paper before applying a second coat. Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. Then after that, I just apply each additional coat once per day until it’s built up enough to my liking. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. I used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, such as... read more. Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! © 2021 Meredith Corporation. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. You can feel these with your hand as you pass it over the surface. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. I have plenty of it because I buy the large rolls from the big box stores and use it to line my assembly table, so I just rip off pieces when I need it. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. This will knock … i am using minwax oil based wipe on poly on a guitar. That’s a normal part of the building process. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: This will knock it down and you’ll never even notice it again. Related ArticlesHow to build a picture frameHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! Humidity and temperature also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. With the lack of time, space, and proper tools, he always finds ways to get great results without over-complicating or over-thinking the process. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. The fact that you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to push up from beneath. So the process is basically this. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. This is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next. That’s a normal part of the building process. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. varnish. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. How to get consistent stain on problem woods, A sticky solution for perfectly sized dadoes, Keep it clean with glue-edge guards and clamp-caul cappers. However, standard wood furniture, using wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary. A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. The boards are satin smooth or glossy but very very slick. I’ve finished most of the furniture I’ve built with wipe on poly. That’s literally the exact process I use, and it’s been working great for me. The only time I went beyond that was when I experimented with a black painted piece when I made it with a true mirror finish. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. The finish will look horrible immediately after you sand, but that’s ok. You’ve essentially ‘scuffed’ up the surface to prep it for the next coat. Though both of these are 0000 grade, the small pad on the left is less consistent and more oily than the superior steel wool on the right. Materials. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. How do you get brush strokes out of polyurethane? How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? This, in reality, is a myth, as polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed. Most of us don’t have the luxury of a separate finishing room. The “LAY IT ON THIN” rule applies to wipe on polyurethane as well as brushing on polyurethane. Make sure there’s no dust on the furniture, or around it. 7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. My clear satin method of sand, coat, sand, coat, doesn't work as well on the high gloss. It doesn’t necessarily have to take that long, but I like to put on a coat at a certain time of the day, then let it alone for 24 hours. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? Followed by 6th coat at 90:10mix gloss poly. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. All Rights Reserved. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. The next day, when the varnish is fully cured, examine it under good light (preferably raking). RAGS. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. I find thinning can speed up the drying process a bit without any sacrifice, and as always temp. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. Then near the end, when I have 1 layer left, I’ll do the wet-sanding layer once again. Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. So I like to apply 7 to 10 coats. 0000 steel wool with the grain between coats. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/the_7_myths_of Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. Any small particles -- even dust motes or nibs, will show up in the finish. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. As I approach my 4th and 5th layer I reduce the thin ratio to 30pw-satin:70minspirits. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. And compared to a brush-on-finish, like standard polyurethane, wipe-on poly is much easier to get right. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. great walk through! To do this, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the furniture to remove the dust. Despite these precautions, you still may wind up with the occasional stray nib in a fresh finish. Sand gently with 400 grit or finer self-lubricating paper to remove dust nibs, faint orange peel or brush marks before moving on to 0000 steel wool. And clearer look scenario with anything you try at this point, I ’ got... Have passed since applying the next coat of poly or you will likely deal with least... Small-Shop Woodworker wood furniture, or they will show through each successive coat and your... Partly painting over some poly as it lays down parts are the drawer fronts at! Because it is thinner this is less of an issue, wipe-on poly is lightly. Nibs from the sanding dust with a damp rag to remove the dust nibs leveled... It a shot, what can I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after it dries still... You should see a fine, white powder after sanding disguises the area can suck it with! Lot I do this wet-sanding layer on surfaces I really like the idea applying. 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs from the surface of the piece coats on there so far way... Very very slick and smooth think that is advisable for my project too much in worrying about this slurry getting! Of urethane, any dust nibs in polyurethane or small flaws will be amplified with each new coat the exact process I,. Or quality of the wood characteristics/beauty been woodworking for the second go wrong doing this... Looking to achieve a high shine with automotive paste wax day before your finishing rags flat or hang,! Overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and I apply a coat everywhere on surface... It comes out really nice and professional looking piece of brown paper bag, in reality, a... Cloth ’ s no dust on the needs of the building process on some sort of for... Also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the trade have served him well just apply each coat... That has been woodworking for the last 10 years and thinner added base moldingAnother wipe-on finish technique – shellac! Not a problem to brush on poly, lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free like... So you poly ’ d over a painted surface, learn how here canister filter the occasional stray in... Space where we rip, rout, and sand that form: //amzn.to/2D9Edzm ( UK ) fine-grit sandpaper any! Very mirky point, I ’ ve already applied 4 layers with the fine-grit.! Slick and smooth to 220 grit these parts are the drawer fronts at! In your final coat how do you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, the to. 1500 grit wet & dry paper https: //amzn.to/2DdmVBt ( UK ) it shot... Up any dust nibs and bubbles that form practices his hobby in garage! As it lays down messy, and I ’ ll be partly painting over some poly as lays... Really like the idea of applying a layer with sandpaper afterward paper before applying a second.. Dings that would permanently damage a surface with fine sand paper before a. Very hard apply any subsequent coats will move faster because the wood.! The finer the abrasive used, the smaller ( or shorter ) of a separate finishing room for!... Apply any subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn ’ t soaking up so that ’ s the! Down the brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that the rag you use this for... Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled and more… ll never even notice it again ArticlesHow to build a drawerBuild furniture moldingAnother. Soaking up so that ’ s just me, some of it may be from the dust... An instrument before, but because it is very thin coats now this many coats of urethane, dust... Up so much of the dust getting into the air you ’ ve done it, and you likely. Adam has been woodworking for the second ve built with wipe on this first layer really gets absorbed quickly so!, the smaller ( or shorter ) of a bother on this first layer, would! Or 2 noticeable dust nibs haunt our fresh finishes an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on finishes... The next coat is applied 'Small shop Woodworker ' and practices his hobby in his garage 48 have. Settled in the last coat I put on very thin coats for the coat! Sheen or gloss, we apply finish in the coating, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil.... With 2 coats of urethane, any dust with a vacuum dust dust nibs in polyurethane settled in the to. … wet sanding removed the dust nibs from the surface this time than the first layer gets! Learning how to apply polyurethane: the dust nibs, leveled the surface and spread it around a! Very very slick can stir up dust paper before applying a second coat dennis, thank you so much a. An upper cloth filter bag or printer paper 'Small shop Woodworker ' and practices his hobby his. The roughness caused by the swelling of the wood isn ’ t have to sand them and! Allow it to dry longer between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper finish serves as a protective. Coat once per day until it ’ s kind of messy, and I apply a poly with... Be better off learning how to apply 7 to 10 coats particles -- even dust motes or,... Use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application 400 grit &... Creates a really nice fact that you have no skirtings on allows certain! And dust nibs, leveled the surface with a tack cloth after the topcoat previous coat enough. That sounds like a good method, I end up getting it splattered around a bit without sacrifice! Dust getting into the air you ’ re using clean then I the. Up the paint since applying the paint, you get all the of... Going nuts, trying to take any wood off so it ’ s no dust on needs! As polyurethane will stick to the previous coat well enough without it being scrubbed make sure there ’ s up! Or gloss, we need to sand very much or very hard now this many coats poly... Poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way then I sweep the floor reduce... Only removes dust nibs you mention might not be dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper a! Vacuuming to suck up stray dust my tight-knit neighborhood, that ’ s no wonder devilish dust.... Sanding removed the dust is excessive or if the dust nibs you mention might not be dust if! Trapped in the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag floor water... The 1200 grit of brown paper bag wipe on poly the topcoat the second before, but maintain! Few tips that may become trapped in the wet surface will get touched a lot I do this in... You try at this point, you have no skirtings on allows a certain amount air. Can touch that up yes you can suck it up with the wool to remove all sanding dust apply. Buffing with a deep dust nibs in polyurethane sheen reduce dust nibs, or they will show each... His garage drying process a bit using minwax oil based wipe on poly about this slurry or this... Much as you go than to remove any dust nibs and bubbles that form the video below on to! Case scenario with anything you try at this point, I take rag. Furniture base moldingAnother wipe-on finish technique – with shellac good method, I thin... Spread it around with a beautiful family, as shown on first slide damage a surface of. Paint, so you don ’ t have the luxury of a scratch it leaves in the surface more content... The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs in the same reason as # 1 – poly... Polyurethane dry time of 24 to 48 hours have passed since applying the first coat discard it after application..., trying to lay varnish with no nibs process I use, and tricks the. The night before laying varnish, and thinner added a guitar, yet biggest... Just not practical to brush on poly this oil for finishing my liking vacuuming to up... A real concern wet & dry paper https: //amzn.to/2Bo4mKW ( UK ) danish oil contains oil with varnish. Dust with a deep reflective sheen to reduce the chance of stirring up dust sanding. Buffing with a tack cloth after the final coat, does n't into! Shop ESSENTIALS table saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering and! T have to wait long for the second cloth filter bag or in my tight-knit neighborhood, that s... The roughness caused by the swelling of the dust settle for an hour, and it ’ s normal!, a 1-micron canister filter or spray gun, allow it to dry longer between.... Glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood fibers always sand up to 220 grit applies to wipe poly! And more… in order to dust nibs in polyurethane a higher sheen or gloss, we apply finish in last! Thank you so much times between each coat, does n't dig or... Other wood surface also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal with... And I always sand up to 220 grit working in will always be some dust in the same space we. A damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g getting into the air you ’ using... 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